Ubud

Ubud is een plaats in het centrum van het eiland Bali, Indonesië en wordt beschouwd als cultureel centrum van het eiland. Ubud heeft een bevolking van ongeveer 8000 mensen.

Begrijpen

De naam is afgeleid van het Balinese woord ubad, dat medicijn betekent. In het begin was Ubud slechts een klein landschap gecentreerd rond Campuhan. Thans zijn vele omliggende dorpen aan Ubud vastgegroeid. Tezamen met deze dorpen (waaronder Peliatan) heeft de agglomeratie een oppervlakte van ca. 40 km2 en niet minder dan ca. 60.000 inwoners, een soort halfverstedelijkt dicht bevolkt platteland.

Het toerisme in Ubud ontwikkelde zich in 1930 onder de vorst Tjokorde Gede Agung Sukawati (1910-1978) die Ubud's eerste hotel startte. In 1936 begon hij met met A.A. Sobrat, Gusti Nyoman Lempad, Walter Spies en Rudolf Bonnet de Pita Maha schildersorganisatie. Ze maakten van Ubud het 'cultureel hart van Bali'. Waar Ubud vroeger vooral bezocht werd door backpackers, is het nu populair bij literici, kunstverzamelaars en connoisseurs. Ubud staat bekend om de traditionele hindoe-cultuur.

De hoofdstraat van Ubud is de Jalan Raya Ubud met vele winkels (vooral kunst), cafés, restaurants, hotels en het Puri Saren Agung paleis. Laatsgenoemde is een grote trekpleister voor toeristen met optredens van diverse Balinese dansgroepen. Ook de markt (pasar) is altijd druk. In de omgeving van Ubud bevinden zich prachtige rijstvelden. Bekend is het museum Puri Lukisan, bestaande uit 3 gebouwen met moderne en traditionale Balinese kunst. Ook bekend is het Apenwoud (Monkey-forest) met de beroemde Apengrot, een oud hindoestaans tempelcomplex dat tegenwoordig wordt bewoond door een grote kolonie van meer dan 200 makaak-apen

Arriveren

. A short trip is about Rp 10,000 and drivers will be glad to wait for you for a return fare. Also, any guy with a motorbike is implicitly in the transport business and bike rides are about half the price of a passenger vehicle.

Push bikes

You can also rent a push bike - a regular bicycle, for about Rp 20,000 a day. There's a large selection available at the corner of the football field. You can arrange a half-day trip involving a gentle downhill cruise from the top of the island back to Ubud on rented bikes. Apart from a very few short, sharp uphill sections, the ride is very relaxed and is well worth the time if you want to see the surrounding country in a less "touristy" way.

See

Goa Gajah

Sacred hot springs, Tirta Empul

The town of Ubud has few sights within walking distance, and you'll need some form of transport to get to the temples in the vicinity. The easiest option is to join a tour, or just charter a taxi/bemo for a few hours.

• Museum Puri Lukisan (Museum of Fine Arts), Jl. Raya Ubud (spot the sign and cross the bridge to enter), [1]. Three buildings showcasing traditional and modern Balinese art. The displays are musty and English labeling is a little spotty, but some of the works, particularly the carvings, are quite amazing. Entrance Rp 20,000.

• Monkey Forest, south end of Jl. Monkey Forest; [2]. A forest full of ravenous monkeys, so don't bring any food or risk bites and rabies injections. Stroll through to find Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal, a Temple of the Dead.

• Botanic Garden, Kutuh Kaja, (+62/0) 361 970 951, [3]. The recently opened Botanic Garden is a wonderful way to spend a few hours walking around and exploring the valley that it fills. It is best to go in the morning and avoid the afternoon heat.

• Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women, Jalan Sriwedari 2B, (+62/0) 361 975 485, Banjar Taman, Ubud, [4]. The Seniwati Gallery features art by women; "Seni" is Indonesian for "art" and "Wati" means "women".

All of the following temples cost Rp. 6000/3000 adults/children, and can be reached by taking bemos towards Tampaksiring. Everybody must wear a sash, available at the entrance for a Rp. 1000 donation, and either long pants or a sarong (from Rp. 5000 from hawkers).

• Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave), 3 km east from Ubud. A popular little excursion from Ubud, the centerpiece here is a cave, whose entrance is an ornately carved demon's mouth. Inside are some fragmentary lingam and yoni (phallus and vagina) statues, as well as a statue of Ganesha. Statues stand guard around pools near the entrance and a little path leads to a waterfall, rice fields and some Buddhist stupa fragments.

• Gunung Kawi (Poet Mountain), Tampaksiring, 18 km northeast from Ubud. Entrance fee is 6000 IDR, sarong is rented for free. Dating from the 11th century, this is presumed to be the burial complex of King Anak Wungsu and his many wives. Reached by climbing down 371 steps, the location at the bottom of a steep valley lined with paddy fields is stunning. The smaller complex on the south side of the river is presumed to be for the king's wives, while the larger complex is thought to be for the King himself and perhaps his concubines. You must take off your shoes before entering into the central pura complex. About one km downstream there are further tomb cloisters. On the way back up, take a break at Cafe Kawi, which has cold drinks (Rp. 10000 up) and fresh breezes (free).

• Tirta Empul, Tampaksiring, 20 km northeast from Ubud. One of the holiest temples on Bali, built around hot springs that now bubble eerily in the central courtyard. Balinese themselves come here to bathe and purify themselves physically and spiritually, and during Galungan the sacred barong masks are bathed here. The complex dates to 960, but the present buildings are all modern reconstructions.

Do

As a center of the arts, Ubud has dance and shadow puppet performances every night and plenty of spas for resynchronizing your healing chakras.

Between Sanur and Ubud The road to Ubud from the south passes a series of small towns which specialize in the production of particular arts and crafts, including Batubulan (stone carving), Celuk (jewelry), Batuan (painting), and Mas (wood carving). The area has many large showrooms where arts and crafts in the Balinese style are offered for sale.

Nearly all organized day-tours of central Bali stop at one or more of these showrooms (and the tour operators usually have a financial tie-up with the places where they stop, collecting a commission on purchases.) Even individual taxi drivers have their preferred stops.

The area is sometimes referred to as the "craft villages" of Bali, though the area is a bit more built-up and congested than one might infer from the term "village." The whole scene has become rather commercialized. But still it's the best area to see a wide variety of the best Balinese craftwork in a short period of time.

Cultural performances

• Puri Saren and Puri Saraswati, Jl. Raya Ubud (just east of Jl Monkey Forest). Smack dab in the centre of town, dance performances (Rp. 50,000 up) are staged here almost nightly.
• Batubulan. A national performance dance Barong takes place there every day at 9:30 a. m. It lasts 1 hour, entrance fee - 50 000 IDR. This is a performance for tourists about everlasting battle between the good and the evil, where there is not much dancing, but more "talking". While buying a ticket you'll also get a description (aka libretto) of what will be performed.

Spas

• Bodyworks Healing Centre, Jl. 25 Hanoman, tel. (+62/0) 361 975 720 / 971 393, [5]. Ubud Bodyworks Healing Centre was founded by Sri Guru. This centre was established 25 years ago and was the first bodyworks centre established in Ubud. Bodyworks is the home of Sri Guru; his family compound was already a place where many Balinese people would come for healing.

• Pertenin Body Care, Jl. Jatayu, tel. (+62/0) 361 972 834, [6]. Facial treatments and massage in a relaxing modern environment. From Rp 85000/hour, free pickup for two or more from anywhere in Ubud.

• The Lembah Spa, Jln. Lanyahan, Br Nagi, tel. (+62/0) 361 971 777, [7]. The Lembah Spa offers the best of exotic Asian massages and treatments, combined with the expertise of masseurs in sophisticated European treatments.

Yoga and Meditation

• Taman Hati Yoga and Meditation Center, Banjar Nyuh Kuning, tel. (+62/0361) 974 739, tamanhati2000@yahoo.com.

Buy

Inside Ubud Market

Ubud has a vast assortment of art and jewellery shops. Head for boutiques for higher quality (and higher prices), or down to the market for bulk-produced cheapies.

• Ubud Market, corner of Monkey Forest Rd and Jl. Raya Ubud. A two-story warren of stalls bursting at the seams with wood carvings, batik shirts, sarongs and anything else a tourist could possibly want as souvenirs. The merchants here haggle with tourists for a living and think nothing of asking for ten times the going price, so try to establish a baseline before you go in and buy. Try to avoid busy lunchtimes when the tour bus hordes arrive.

Eat

Budget

• Warung Igelanca ("Iggy's"), Jl. Raya Ubud, tel. (+62/0) 81 5894 3251 (handphone). Cheap and cheerful Indonesian favorites like nasi campur, fried rice and noodles, plus (this being Ubud) a range of herbal drinks, such as Ginger Jive.

• Dewa Warung, Jl. Gootama, Ubud. Dewa's is one of the best and cheapest places to eat in town; serves all the usual Balinese dishes. The most expensive item on the menu is the Cashew Ginger Chicken for Rp 12,000 - about a Euro. Be sure to say hello to Ibu Dewa.

Mid-range

• Casa Luna, Jalan Raya Ubud, Bali, (+62/0) 361 973 282, [8]. Western and local dishes, sometimes falling somewhere in between.

• Dragonfly, Jl. Dewi Sita (off Jl. Monkey Forest at football field), tel. (+62/0) 361 972 973, [9]. Opened in 2006, this conveniently located restaurant offers fusionesque "West-East" eats, traditional Indonesian fare, and even a few Mexican dishes. It also has free WiFi.

• Gaia, Jl. Dewi Sita, [10] offers a wide range of vegetarian, Balinese and Indonesian food.

• Nomad, Jl. Raya Ubud 35, tel. (+62/0) 361 977 169, [11]. A long-steanding institution that serves up a good selection of Balinese, Indonesian and Western dishes, but deservedly popular is their "tapas" selection, consisting of bite-sized portions of local flavors. 12 tapas with rice costs Rp. 60000 and feeds two.

• Tutmak, Jl. Dewi Sita and next to football field, tel. (+62/0) 361 975 754. A favorite with the expat crowd, Tutmak offers an international menu and an extensive selection of coffees.

Splurge

• Bebek Bengil, Hanoman Rd. Bebek Bengil (Balinese for Dirty Duck) is an interesting restaurant with paddy field view and nice gardens. They are famous for their crispy fried duck, and some European based menu. They have interesting selections of cakes as well. Expect to spend 100.000 IDR per head.
• CasCades Restaurant, Jln. Lanyahan, Br Nagi, Tel: (+62/0) 361 972 111, [12]. Classical French food made with local ingredients. Dishes include Un Petit Jésus Dans Une Culotte de Velours (pan-fried duck liver on onion, date compote with passionfruit sorbet). Expect to pay about Rp.400,000 per person.

Drink

Ubud has quite a few hip places for a quiet drink, but the strictly enforced regulation that all live performances must end by 10:30 PM puts a bit of a clamp on the local nightlife.

• Ary's Warung, Jl. Raya Ubud 35 (opp Puri Saraswati). Don't be fooled by the name, this is a stylish watering hole with a large bar downstairs, complete with sofas and cow-leather bar stools, and a rather less busy restaurant upstairs. Drinks are expensive but generously sized.

• Jazz Cafe, Jl. Sukma No. 2 Tebesaya (in Peliatan), tel. (+62/0) 361 976 594. Outdoor jazz bar with live bands nightly. A limited food menu and an overpriced selection of drinks (Rp. 50000 or so). Cover charge Rp. 20000.

Sleep

Budget

• Shana Homestay, Jl Gautama No 7 Padang Tegal, (+62/0) 361 97 481. Very near to the traditional & art market and Nomad restaurant, Shana is a place where you feel stay in Balinese family. You wake up in a serene garden-like bangalow with breakfast ready and greetings from all the family members. Total of 3 bangalow, each comes with 2 beds for 3 persons. Breakfast included, starts from US5, definitely worth a stay.

• Narasoma Homestay, Gang Beji off Jalan Monkey Forest, (+62/0) 361 973 404, [13]. Just down a little lane off busy Jalan Monkey Forest, Narasoma is a family home and accommodation surrounded by coconut palms. Nyoman and Charlotte welcome you into their family to experience life in a Balinese compound. From the top floor you will be able to see the sacred mountains to the west of Bali. 'The sunrises and sunsets are great!

• Rumah Roda Homestay and Restaurant, Jalan Kajeng 24 Ubud, Bali 80571, (+62/0) 361 975 487, [14]. Lovely family compound with rooms for less than $10. The restaurant is also a treat - catch the Sunday evening buffet. The book A Little Bit One O'Clock is about this place and family.

Mid-range

• Oka Kartini, Jl. Raya Ubud 35 (just across the bridge in Peliatan), +62-361-975759, [15]. Quirky old Balinese house complex on the edge of town, the rooms here are a bit long in tooth but decorated with more carvings and gold paint than the average temple. Friendly staff watched over by the remarkable lady Oka Kartini herself, large art gallery, small but pleasant garden pool, shadow puppet shows three days a week(separate charge). Fan/AC rooms $30-$45, including breakfast.

• Sri Bungalows, Jl. Monkey Forest Road, +62-361-975394, sribungalows@hotmail.com Centrally located with 16 bright bungalow-style rooms tucked into lush gardens. It's only about 50 meters from the busy road, but it's very quiet except for the singing of birds. The rooms are simple, but nice. They have bamboo furniture, western toilets and hot water. There's a large pool in the back, and rice paddies beyond the pool. An internet cafe is also on the premises. Fan/AC rooms $25-$35, including breakfast.

Splurge

• Barong Resort and Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud, Bali, 80571. Tel: +62-361-971759. Nestled in the paddy fields of Ubud, the resort provides both accommodation and spa facilities that reflect Bali's tranquility. Offering 5 star hotel rooms, prices start from USD 200.

• Bumi Ayu Villa [16]. A two storey, two bedrooms, bungalow in the forest on a cliff overlooking the river behind the village of Sebatu. Sebatu is on the road from Ubud to Kintamani. 120 euros/person/day, including driver available for the full day.

• Villa Vajra, [17]. A 3 bedroom villa located right in the heart of Ubud. Rates run from $450-560 per night (dependning on season).

• The Viceroy Bali, Jln. Lanyahan, Br Nagi., Tel: +62-361-971-777, [18]. The Viceroy Bali is a luxury resort situated 5 min by car from the center of Ubud and offers private villas with pools, satellite TV, bath, shower, king beds, free broadband internet access and helicopter transfers. US$ 800 - US$ 2,500 per night.

• Elite Havens, Jl Raya Semer #883, tel +62 361 731-074. [19]. This villa agency provides a wide range of private luxury villas for rental with staff in Ubud and other locations on the island. All villas are fully staffed and feature private swimming pools. US$200-2500 per night.

• Bale Bali, Jl. Pendidikan no. 86 Sidakarya Denpasar - Bali, tel +62-361-7400442 [20]. This private villa agency provides a wide range of private staffed villas for rental in Ubud and other locations in Bali. From budget private villas to luxury villas. All private villas are fully staffed and feature private swimming pools.

• Bukit Naga, +62 361 730 668 [21]. A 6 bedroom private villa with a full staff and private car.

• Villa Alamanda, [22]. A 3 bedroom staffed villa of classic Bali design.

• Como Shambhala Estate, [23]. Formerly the Begawan Giri Estate. Price range US$275-$3600 per night. About a 15 minute drive from Ubud. Private residences, the ultimate in luxury.

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